It’s funny… we’ve been working with Big Wally’s for so long, we think we know everything there is to know. That’s why it’s so great to hear from new users with innovative tips and tricks to make plaster ceiling repair even easier (or in this case, a whole lot less messy). We would have never thought of this one…

Have a look at that photo. No, those aren’t stalactites hanging inside a cave. They’re Q-tips. A new homeowner from Cape Cod discovered that these cotton-coated sticks are not only useful for keeping your ears clean, they’re perfect for keeping your floors and work area clean while making plaster ceiling repairs.

When spraying the liquid Big Wally’s conditioner behind broken plaster on a ceiling, 10 times out of 10 you’ll get some residual drippage. Our homeowner discovered that if you stick a Q-Tip in the hole immediately after spraying in the adhesive, you’ll minimize that drippage to practically nothing. Coincidentally, the Q-Tip is a perfect fit for the 3/16″ bit we recommend for drilling.

After spraying adhesive into each hole, our homeowner went back and removed each Q-Tip, one by one, and injected Big Wally’s adhesive, replacing them as he moved from one hole to the next. When it was time to screw the clamp through the plaster and into the lath, the Q-Tips worked beautifully, forcing all the excess adhesive to squirt sideways, behind the plaster, instead of squirting out of the hole and onto your floor.

So here are those steps again…

1. Drill 3/16″ holes as usual to prepare broken plaster for conditioner and adhesive.

2. Spray conditioner into each hole, one at a time, and immediately plug the hole with a single Q-Tip.

3. After conditioning each hole, start at the beginning and remove each Q-Tip, one at a time, and inject adhesive, replacing the Q-Tips as you go.

4. Screw in clamps.

5. Remove Q-Tips and wipe excess adhesive with damp sponge or cloth.

6. Have a drink. With all the cleanup time you saved, you deserve one.

If you have any tips for using Big Wally’s Plaster Magic, please let us know (email us at info@plastermagic.com). We love hearing from you, and so do our other customers.

In the following video, Rory Brennan, the founder of Big Wally’s Plaster Magic, will walk you through the things you’ll need. He’ll also give you some quick tips on how to use the spray-in conditioner, the adhesive and the patching plaster.

What kind of materials do you need? Everything you need comes in the Plaster Magic kit. Beyond that, you’ll need some cool, clean water and a mixing bucket or pail for the patching plaster. It’s also wise to wear safety glasses.

Here is a complete list of tools for plaster repair.

As always, if you have any questions for Rory about tools, materials, or anything pertaining to plaster repair and plaster ceiling repair, email info(at)plastermagic.com.

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We received a question recently from a customer about to start a renovation that involved plaster repair. He asked: “If a renovator disrupts 6 square feet or less of painted surface per room in several rooms inside one property, does the RRP Rule apply?”

First, some background. The RRP Rule is the Renovation, Repair and Painting Rule. It was issued by the Environmental Protection Agency in 2008 to help protect against the hazards of lead-based paint.

So, to answer your question: No, the rule does not apply in this plaster repair circumstance. The beautiful thing about using Big Wally’s Plaster Magic is that there is no demolition involved — you are adhering the damaged plaster back onto the wall rather than ripping it out and disturbing its pained sandwich. As long as no prohibited work practices are used and the work does not involve window replacement, you’re all set.  The exception to the RRP rule for work that disrupts 6 square feet or less of painted surface applies to each individual room and is inclusive of all work done in the room in any 30-day period.

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Here’s another question we received recently: “My firm drills a series of 1/2 inch diameter holes in sheet rock to dry it out where rooms have been flooded.  Is drilling these holes a prohibited practice?”

No.  The RRP Rule prohibits the use of machines that remove lead-based paint through high speed operation such as sanding, grinding, power planing, needle gun, abrasive blasting, or sandblasting, unless such machines are used with HEPA exhaust control.  The requirement for HEPA exhaust control does not apply to the use of all power tools.

Specifically, HEPA exhaust control is not required when using a power drill to drill holes in sheetrock.  When using a power drill with a drill bit to cut through sheetrock, the speed associated with the contact between the bit and the paint is not of the same magnitude as the contact speed generated by the machines identified in the regulation.  Therefore, the work described in the question is not a prohibited practice.

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One last question: “If I use a hammer to make a hole is a wall that is two feet on each side, does the RRP Rule apply?”

Actually, yes.  Although making the hole disrupts less than six square feet of painted surface, using a hammer to make the hole is considered demolition of the surface, so the minor repair and maintenance exception does not apply.  However, if you make the hole using a cut-out technique that does not destroy the section of the wall that is removed, it is not demolition, and the minor repair and maintenance exception would apply.

The moral of the story here is that you can avoid the rather strict EPA rules and regulations by repairing plaster walls and ceilings rather than tearing them out. You’ll save time, money, headache and perhaps most importantly, you’re safeguarding your and your family’s health during the plaster repair process.

Happy plastering.

The Scrape and Tape
We call this inferior method of plaster repair the “Scrape and Tape.” It is commonly deployed on a crack in a plaster wall or ceiling. The repairman uses a metal scraping tool, such as a paint scraper, to gouge a groove directly over the crack. He will then typically use drywall screws to secure the plaster around the crack to the lath. He then uses joint compound to fill in the groove, either with or without drywall tape or mesh, just as he would treat a seam on installed drywall.

“That sounds reasonable. Why is the ‘Scrape and Tape’ method wrong?”

Well, think about it. That crack didn’t choose a random spot on your wall or ceiling to attack. That crack appeared because of instability in the structure. If you don’t stabilize the plaster, the same problem crack will reappear — it’s just a matter of when.

That’s why it’s crucially important to securely reattach the plaster to the lath. A handful of drywall screws and some “cover up” joint compound are a temporary solution. It’s like using a blue tarp to fix a leak in your roof.

Luckily, there’s a way to stabilize the plaster and permanently repair cracked plaster walls or ceilings. Injecting an adhesive like Big Wally’s Plaster Magic behind the plaster and using a special screw/washer combination to securely attach it to the lath will fix the problem once and for all (watch a video of this plaster repair process). Now, with the plaster firmly reattached, you can cover the entire area with a thin layer of joint compound. There’s no need to scrape a large groove, which requires more joint compound, which increases the likelihood of cracks.

We hope this helped you determine the most long-lasting way to repair that crack in your plaster. Now you’re armed with knowledge and ready to roll.

Happy plastering.

A few weeks ago, Rory was called to a circa 1900 home to repair a hole in a plaster wall. The hole was formed when a careless electrician used a sawzall to cut a space for a light switch. The vibration of the saw caused damage, resulting in an approximately 12″ diameter hole that needed to be stabilized and filled in with new plaster.

After stabilizing the lath and plaster with Big Wally’s adhesive, Rory applied the patching plaster. Using Big Wally’s patching plaster, which is specially designed to be flexible and bond with existing historic plaster, Rory filled in the hole with a “rough draft” of sorts, also known as a “scratch coat”. After letting it dry overnight, he was ready to move on to the third and final step: applying the finish coat.

In the video below, Rory shows you how to smooth down the scratch coat in preparation for the final coat. He then uses a simple joint compound as the final coat.

After that final coat dries, you’ll simply give it a light sanding and paint or wallpaper over it. Voila! Hole fixed.

Have more questions about repairs or how to use Big Wally’s Plaster Magic? Please feel free to leave them in the comments below or get in touch with us at info(at)plastermagic.com.

A few weeks ago, Rory was called to a circa 1900 home to repair a hole in a plaster wall. The hole was formed when a careless electrician used a sawzall to cut a space for a light switch. The vibration of the saw caused damage, resulting in an approximately 12″ diameter hole that needed to be stabilized and filled in with new plaster.

After stabilizing the lath and plaster with Big Wally’s adhesive, Rory was ready to move on to part two, which involved applying patching plaster. Using Big Wally’s patching plaster, which is specially designed to be flexible and bond with existing historic plaster, Rory filled in the hole with a “rough draft” of sorts, also known as a “scratch coat”.

In the video below, Rory will show you how to properly mix the patching plaster, which comes from the factory in powder form. The powder mix is combined with water until a peanut-buttery substance is achieved. It’s best to add water in small doses — you can always add more but you can’t take away.

Rory used a simple trowel to apply the scratch coat. He scooped small amounts and applied them gently, filing in any holes left behind by the drill when stabilizing the lath. Being a first coat, he did spend much time making it perfect — that comes later. He then let it dry overnight before moving on to the third and final step: applying the final coat. You can watch that video in our next blog post.

Have more questions about repairs? Please feel free to leave them in the comments below or get in touch with us at info(at)plastermagic.com.

First, Rory used screws and a screwgun to repair the “floating” lath behind the light switch, attaching the unstable pieces to studs and other lath. Then, using a 3/16″ masonry bit, Rory drilled holes into the unstable plaster about 1 to 4″ around the edge of the hole. Next, he used Big Wally’s Plaster Magic adhesive to reattach the plaster to the lath behind it. With the lath and plaster now stabilized, he was able to fill in the hole with a “scratch coat” of Big Wally’s Patching Plaster. He then let it dry until it was ready for the second coat.

Below is a video tutorial of the entire process. This is part 1 of a 3-part process – we’ll be posting part 2 and 3 soon so check back!

Have more questions about repairs? Please feel free to leave them in the comments below or get in touch with us at info(at)plastermagic.com.

Whenever you approach a plaster repair project, there are three crucial issues to keep in mind:

1. The Building.
2. Beauty and Durability.
3. Stability.

Last week we addressed issue #2, Beauty and Durability. This week we’ll discuss issue #2, Beauty and Durability.

Homeowners often get frustrated when repairing historic plaster because the same crack they fixed shows up again in a few years. “What happened?” they say. “I just repaired that wall!”

Think Deep

When surveying damaged or cracked plaster, it’s important to think beyond the painted surface. True, the surface is the only thing you’ll end up seeing. But it is crucial to give your finished plaster surface a stable underlayment, lath system and frame. This will ensure that it lasts decades, possibly centuries. You wouldn’t put a new roof on your house if the rafters underneath were rotted away, right?

Aside from moisture damage, most plaster wall and plaster ceiling damage is a result of a moving building. This can occur as a result of:

• Earthquake
• Severe Weather
• Sinking Foundation
• Home repairs that necessitate structural modification
• Rotting wood

A plaster wall is basically a sheet of thin rock. That thin sheet is attached to wood lath (thin strips of wood attached horizontally to studs). The lath is attached to the building’s structural system (typically vertical wood studs). That structural system bears the brunt of any movement in a building, which in turn weakens the plaster/lath relationship and breaks them apart. You’re left with loose plaster that is no longer attached to its host.

You’ve Got Broken Plaster. Now What?

If you’re building’s movement was caused by a sinking foundation or rotting wood, you’ll want to address that problem first. There’s no use spending the time and energy to repair plaster cracks only to have it reappear in a few years.

Once you’ve assured a stable structure, you’ll want to perform subsurface reinforcement, which is basically a fancy way of saying “glue it back on.” After drilling small holes around the broken plaster, use a specially-designed plaster adhesive to reattach it to the lath behind. This adhesive is designed to bond the “rock” and “wood” back together, creating the relationship that was lost during the building’s movement.

Okay, NOW you can get to the fun part, the part everyone sees and where your hard work pays off. Your plaster is now stabilized and you can perform the surface cosmetic tasks to produce a smooth, beautiful surface.

Like anything in life, it pays to get to the root of the problem. Good luck and happy plastering!

Whenever you approach a plaster repair project, there are three crucial issues to keep in mind:

1. The Building.
2. Beauty and Durability.
3. Stability.

Today we’ll address issue #1: The Building.

It’s easy to get caught up in all the details that surround home improvement projects. Budget woes, scheduling conflicts, interruption of your in-home routine… these are all valid concerns when tackling a plaster wall or plaster ceiling repair project. But, it’s important to remember that the building is your client. Just like any client, you want to make sure it is happy and satisfied with a job well done.

When most people look at plaster all they can see is the finished surface. Knowing the age of the building, where it is located geographically, and the changes it went through will allow you to determine the composition of the existing plaster system. If you know your building’s history and plaster makeup, you’ll make wise decisions about materials and methods (read more about plaster makeup and history).

Most damage occurs as a result of the building moving or shifting on its foundation. When the movement is more than the plaster can physically accommodate, cracks result. The wood lath that is attached to the building’s structural system bears the brunt of any movement, which in turn weakens the plaster and separates it from the lath.

Renewing the bond between the backside of the plaster and the wood lath is the best way to restore the plaster’s original structural integrity. This is why we developed Big Wally’s adhesive – to restore that bond.

Of course, in any home repair project, the budget (or lack thereof) often takes precedence. Quality materials and workmanship are sacrificed to save money. It makes sense in the short term, but we urge you to think about the long-term.

Short-cut methods of repairing plaster will almost always cost you more in the long run. And think about your client, the building — would it be happy with you if your plaster repair cracked again in a few years? Would it be happy if the inferior adhesive you purchased to save money failed, resulting in another round of repairs?

Plaster is meant to last. That’s why it’s been around for thousands of years, all over the world. Treat it right and it will return the favor.

Check back next week when we’ll address issue #2: Beauty and Durability.

Please don’t rush the decision. Your historic plaster is a treasure and should be treated accordingly. We’ve been in the business for many years and we’ve seen many different types of contractors on the job. Thus, we’ve put our heads together to create 6 surefire tips for choosing a contractor:

1. Ask around. Do you have friends with older homes? Ask if they’ve had their plaster repaired. Did the contractor take the time and consideration to repair the damaged plaster or did he simply rip it out and replace it with drywall. You want a contractor who appreciates the value of plaster in a home. Your friends and family will give you honest, no-nonsense feedback.
2. The more the merrier. Don’t be afraid to seek estimates from several different contractors. Ask for references (if they refuse to give references, this is a good sign that you need to walk away) and follow up.
3. Background checks. Put on your Dick Tracy cap and do some sleuthing. Is the contractor accredited by the Better Business Bureau (you can do a quick and easy search at BBB’s website.)? Is he a member of a trade association? Is he insured? Is he trained in plaster restoration? How long has the business existed? Does he have any complaints logged with the Office of Consumer Protection (do a quick Google search for your local CPA and follow up.)?
4. Do Your Homework. Scout around the world wide web and research plaster repair. It’s more of an art than you might think, and it’s important that your contractor is doing things correctly. Plus, if you come to the negotiating table with a thorough knowledge base — you’ll impress the contractor if you know the difference between a scratch coat and finish coat — you’ll feel much more confident.
5. Beware the Low Bid. Be cautious of bids that come in much lower than other estimates. The contractor may talk a good talk, but these too-good-to-be-true bids often have a way of incurring “unforeseen expenses” as the job progresses. In the long run, the extra money you pay up front for quality, timely work will pay for itself (think of all the money you’ll save on ibuprofen without the headaches!).
6. Trust Your Instinct. Do you get a bad feeling from the guy standing in your living room? Listen to that inner voice. Communication and trust are a huge part of the contractor/homeowner relationship — don’t get stuck with someone you don’t feel good about, even if they pass all the above tests.

We understand that your home is probably the biggest investment you’ll ever make. We also understand that you want to maintain that home, not just to increase value but also to look beautiful.

Once you’ve hired the right man or woman for the job, be sure they know about Big Wally’s Plaster Magic for reattaching loosened plaster to lath. You and your contractor won’t be disappointed.

Happy plastering.